LED face masks are well and truly having their moment in the spotlight, but what’s the science behind the tools?
Can LED masks really help improve skin issues such as acne and signs of ageing? Or are they purely a fad that’s destined for landfill?
To help you decide whether an LED face mask is the right investment for your skincare routine, we’ve sat down with a consultant dermatologist and discussed the science behind LED masks. We’ve also spoken with a technical components expert on the features you should look out for when buying an LED face mask.
What is an LED face mask?
An LED face mask is a non-invasive skincare tool that promises to improve the appearance of your skin. Using light-emitting diodes (LEDs), a face mask will send wavelengths of light into the top layers of your skin to “treat” certain skin concerns.
The skin conditions in question will depend on the LED face mask. While you’ll likely have seen face masks emitting red LEDs, you can also find devices that emit blue, pink, yellow and green lights too, with each colour promising a different treatment.
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For example, red LEDs are designed to stimulate collagen production and help to reduce inflammation whereas blue LEDs promise to kill acne-causing bacteria while pink acts as a middle ground between red and blue, as seen with the Shark Cryoglow.
Shark Cryoglow. Image Credit (Trusted Reviews)
Having said that, it’s not enough to just rely on the colour of the lights. According to Mark Patrick, Director of Technical Content at Mouser, you should check the nanometers of each wavelength before making the purchase. He explains that red light should provide between 630-660 nanometers while blue light should provide slightly less at 405-420 nanometers instead.
Mark advises that a good-quality LED face mask will “clearly state which wavelengths it uses” and if those details are missing or unclear, then there’s a “good chance the LEDs aren’t strong enough or specific enough to deliver results”.
What do dermatologists say about LED masks?
According to Dr Paul Farrant, a consultant dermatologist at Experts in Skin and Hair, at-home LED masks are a useful skincare tool with a “sound mechanistic basis” and a relatively “good safety profile. In fact, he confirms that this is backed up by a 2018 study which found LED treatments to be “safe and well tolerated for a range of skin conditions”.
Therabody TheraFace Mask Glo. Image Credit (Therabody)
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Having said that, Dr Farrant advises that users exercise caution with LED masks and maintain realistic expectations. Essentially, as the “energy levels and depth of penetration in home devices are substantially lower than professional devices”, if you’re aiming for a dramatic skin remodelling or deep scar correction, then an LED mask should be used as part of a broader skincare routine rather than a replacement for a professional facial.
Dr Farrant concluded that “as a consultant dermatologist I see [at-home LED masks] as a helpful tool in the toolbox – particularly for maintenance and regular use – but I emphasise it in the context of overall skin health”. Essentially, an LED mask should be used in conjunction with “maintaining a healthy lifestyle and wearing SPF”.
Is there a downside to LED masks according to a dermatologist?
There are a few caveats to keep in mind if you’re considering investing in an LED face mask. Dr Farrant states one of the key downsides is you may see slower and less dramatic results when compared to in-salon treatments, which may disappoint those expecting pro-level results instantly.
This, Dr Farrant continues, may make a fairly expensive face mask feel less appealing as its “value might be less than expected”.
Dr Farrant also warns that although at-home masks are generally deemed safe, some might experience side effects including “transient redness, dryness, irritation” and even eye damage if used incorrectly. Plus, the heat generated by masks may even trigger pigmentary issues too, so it’s best to consult your dermatologist or doctor if you’ve previously suffered with skin conditions such as melasma or rosacea.
Shark CryoGlow remote. Image Credit (Trusted Reviews)
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Can everyone use an LED mask?
While LED masks are non-invasive and aren’t typically worn for very long periods of time, there are a few restrictions to keep in mind. Firstly, out of caution as there isn’t currently enough research on the potential risks, you should avoid using an LED mask during pregnancy.
We also asked Dr Farrant if there’s anyone else that shouldn’t use an LED mask, to which he stated:
- Anyone taking medications of topical treatments that cause photosensitivity
- Those with active skin cancer, uncontrolled melasma/pigmentation disorders triggered by light, or known eye disorders where light exposure is a risk
He also warns that patients with very dark skin tones and a history of pigment reactivity may need extra caution too.
Is LED light good for eczema?
Following on from the above point, eczema sufferers may wonder whether LED therapy will help or hinder their condition. Dr Farrant warns that although it is thought that as LED therapy is “anti-inflammatory and healing-promoting”, it can assist in inflammatory skin conditions, an LED mask should not be used in place of traditional treatments.
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Instead, he urges that “conventional management for eczema, such as topical treatments and trigger avoidance, should remain the primary approach”.
What should you look for in an LED face mask?
As mentioned earlier, Mark Patrick from Mouser suggests that you should check the wavelength of your desired LED mask to ensure it’s strong enough to give you the desired results. In addition, Mark also advises that you should look out for a CE marking and battery safety certification, to ensure the face mask in question’s power management system is efficient.
In the same vein, Mark states that decent masks will be equipped with “temperature sensors to keep the treatment comfortable and safe” alongside a proximity sensor to ensure it only works when in contact with skin.
Finally, Mark adds that if a mask has multiple treatment modes, then this usually means the brand is using “more sophisticated microcontrollers” which ensures precise LED timing and better personalisation for your skin type too.
